Small Town News

Eagle Valley Sees First Wine Grape Harvest

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Peter Britt reportedly planted the first known commercial vineyard in Oregon near Jacksonville sometime in the 1850s. Over a century later, in 2005, Oregon wineries produced an estimated 1.6 million cases of wine from Oregon vines.

Most Oregon vineyards are situated in the Willamette Valley, southern Oregon and along the Columbia River, but research indicates that parts of central and eastern Oregon are also conducive to commercial vineyards. Recently, Jane Ellis ventured into a vineyard venture in Richland, Oregon, and in the fall of 2009 harvested the first of what she hopes will be many years of grapes selected for the production of wine.

The harvest may have been relatively "very little" according to Ellis, of Richland and New Jersey, but, nevertheless it was a harvest. Out of the 850 vines and 19 varieties planted on the Ellis property, the white grape variety Riesling, which originated in Germany, appears to be the winner this year.

Ellis reports that Riesling grapes "seem least upset by winter cold," possibly due to "centuries of practice" acclimating to cold German winters. While most of the vines are pinched, with the grape clusters removed when they are small so the vines can continue to put energy into the roots, the Riesling grapes "looked so good" they decided to let them ripen.

There are some red wine grapes doing well, also, such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, though none of those was harvested this season. Ellis pointed out there are vines which have not done so well, such as the Tempranillo, a grape vine that "perished" its first winter in the ground.

On the whole, Ellis reports they "need vines that not only make it through winter" but those that can survive spring frosts and still ripen grapes before they "get hammered in the fall." Ellis thinks the "jury is still out on which vines will routinely get the job done."

Ultimately, she hopes to make an "estate grown and bottled wine," although that is a few years down the road.

While this year's harvest only lasted four hours due to "diligent pickers" Kingsley Wilson and Brandon Griffith, with help from Sharon and Art Raya, it was a beginning. In future years, picking grapes could present a bit of stress since multiple varieties will ripen at different times.

Ellis did comment on a few challenges associated with viticulture such as "ignorant deer, too dumb to recognize a deer fence when they see one."

Apparently there is a fall back idea: "If the winery idea fails, raising grape fed venison is our fall back plan."

"Hordes of blackbirds" also enjoy grapes and, though "some sweet corn planted at the perimeter of the vineyard seemed to keep the birds' minds off the grapes," that changed as the grapes reached peak ripeness. In short, blackbirds appear to have been good at harvesting grapes.

Based on a mangled portion of the deer fence, there was speculation that a bear may have sampled a few grapes, too. In fact, bears have been a problem for vineyard owners in California, damaging fences and vines in their eagerness to partake of tasty grapes. In her own research, Ellis found that a bear can smell ripe grapes at nearly six miles distance.

A challenge that would not generally be recognized as a drawback is the amazing vigor of the vines. "A dense jungle" is one of Ellis's descriptive phrases. Too much canopy is a problem since it will shade grape clusters, the clusters can develop molds and the vine, according to Ellis, will put its energy into the leaves rather than ripening the grapes.

Indeed, Ellis wrote the vines "are not suffering enough to make the really good wine grapes." Next year, the plan is to withhold water and by "merciless pruning," achieve a better grape for wine making. The pruning would "keep clusters exposed to sun and air currents, and intensify the flavor."

As is true in all farming-related activities, weather can be a challenge. This year, the grapes were harvested on September 28 when killing frost was in the forecast. Sugar content had been measured and was in the acceptable zone for wine grapes.

There are a few things to focus on for next year. Ellis would like to fix the "so-called deer fence, get rid of the horrible thistle, plant more Riesling grapes," fine tune pruning procedures and try out surge irrigation since some vines were completely saturated while others were thirsty. She would also like to explore planting a block of vines on the southern edge where temperature sensors indicate an area of two to three degrees of cold protection compared with the current vineyard. Last but not least, they are "on the look out for a bargain crusher/destemmer and wine press."

Two of the factors said to contribute to high quality Riesling wine are "high sun exposure, and water stress" two elements certainly available in Eagle Valley. Eastern Oregon Riesling or Snake River Riesling or Panhandle Riesling may be on shelves one day.



Copyright 2009 Hells Canyon Journal, Halfway, Oregon. All Rights Reserved. This content, including derivations, may not be stored or distributed in any manner, disseminated, published, broadcast, rewritten or reproduced without express, written consent from SmallTownPapers, Inc.

© 2010 Hells Canyon Journal Halfway, Oregon. All Rights Reserved. This content, including derivations, may not be stored or distributed in any manner, disseminated, published, broadcast, rewritten or reproduced without express, written consent from DAS.

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